How to crochet a tunic top in your own size

How I made a crochet tunic top with a Hobbii Twister to fit perfectly!

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I am actually very lazy. I decided that rather than me working out how to make a pattern which is sized from XXS through to 5XL or perhaps even getting a tech editor to work it out, then publishing the pattern, that I would just rather teach you the tools to make a top which fits YOU and which you worked out yourself ! Hopefully you agree…

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I used this grey and black shade of Hobbii Twister ( number 40) as I loved the grey/black ombre and honestly, I generally wear grey and black clothes.

 

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I used one ball and made the top in one long piece, however if I made it again I would use two balls and use just the grey and black parts for both the front and the back.

I first wound the whitest shade off the ball as I wanted it to start from the grey, but if I was using two balls I would take off the early white /grey parts from each ball, then start crocheting at grey using the grey and black sections of two balls, so both the front and back were matching. You can see with this top I just used the same ball and the back is much lighter than the front which I am not really keen on.

 

The tunic is made in one long rectangular piece with some shaping at the armholes and a hole for the neck, then sewn together at the sides.  It is very quick to make and finish once you have memorised the stitch pattern.

YOU WILL NEED

1-2 balls of Hobbii Twister

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3.5mm Crochet hook

Scissors

Tapestry needle

GAUGE

4 inch square/11 cm square = 20 stitches x 11 rows

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FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

My top is an Australian Size 14 – 16 so you can use these measurements if you are size 14-16  OR  to make your own size, follow the instructions below by using your own measurements to suit you.

Bottom edge 23 inches/ 60 cm

Bottom edge to armhole 19.5 inches/ 50 cm

Armhole to shoulder 11 3/4 inches/ 30 cm

Shoulder section width 2 3/4 inches / 8 cm

Neckline length 10 1/4 inches/ 26 cm

PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

1. MEASURE SIZE

First find a top in your wardrobe which fits you really well and you enjoy wearing. Starting from the bottom back edge, measure across the bottom back edge of the garment with a tape measure and make a chain a few centimetres longer than this measurement. There will also be some trial and error here as you get started. Complete a few pattern rows and check whether the work measures the same as your own top, if not, frog and repeat until the measurement is the same, this is crucial if you want your tunic top to fit you well. Then measure the length of the top from the bottom back edge up to the armhole and think about whether you want your top to be the same length or longer or shorter.

2. PATTERN SWATCH

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Pattern ( see above photo)

The two row pattern is similar to a V stitch pattern, however it alternates with a 1 stitch V stitch and a 2 stitch V stitch combination in each row as you can see in the photo above. Make a 4 inch swatch of the pattern to check your gauge is OK and whether you need to use a smaller or larger hook, it should be quite loose tension so it drapes well.

Row 1: 3ch, 1 DC, 1 DC, sk 1, (1DC, 2ch, 1 DC) into next stitch, sk 1, (2DC, 2ch, 2 DC) into next stitch, sk 1, (1DC, 2ch, 1 DC) into next stitch, sk 1, repeat until end.

Row 2: 1 DC, 1 DC, sk 1, (2DC, 2ch, 2 DC) into next stitch, sk1, (1DC, 2ch, 1 DC) into next stitch, sk 1,(2DC, 2ch, 2 DC) into next stitch, repeat until end.

3. BACK

If you would like to make the front and the back of the tunic the same colours, you will need to rewind one Twister so you start here on the black section and work to the grey section. Then at the top of the shoulder, you would change to the other ball and work from the grey section down the front to the black section, hope this makes sense!! I actually think this would look better than mine so please give it a try!

Starting from the bottom back edge, make a chain that is 10 cm longer than the measurement you took of the bottom back edge of a top you like.

For me this was ch 112 plus 2 ch for turning.

Crochet one row of DC along the chain as a foundation row Work in the pattern ( as above) with no increases or decreases until your piece measures the measurement you took from the bottom of your top to the armhole ( in my case it was 19.5 inches/ 50 cm)29333E61-0E27-4C8A-B7C7-DA2DDD0F816D-CA4FFA84-8156-4E15-9EA5-F3FC1B05AD24

4. ARM DECREASE

Continue in pattern, decreasing 5 stitches at the start of the next two rows. Then continue in pattern until work is long enough to cover the space between your armhole up to your neck, you can adjust it here according to how high you would like the neckline to be to suit yourself. In my case this measurement was 11 3/4 inches/ 30 cm.

5. NECK HOLE

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Work 22 stitches, turn and complete 6 rows on these stitches only to make the shoulder section for one side, then fasten off. Skip 68 stitches ( in my case, you need to work out your own measurements. In my case , a total of 112 stitches, minus the shoulder stitches (2x 22= 44) left 68 stitches for the neck.

Skip those 68 stitches, then attach yarn to other side of the neck.

Work 6 rows on the second group of 22 stitches to complete the other side of the shoulder section ( the stitches will vary according to your own measurements, this is a guide for the size 14-16 size I made only.)

After the 6th row, chain 68 to make the other  side of the neckline ( for the front of the tunic) then rejoin to the first shoulder and work across to make a row which closes up the neck “hole” ( see photo below). The join doesn’t look great, but somehow it blends in with the pattern and is fine when wearing it as you can’t notice it.

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6. ARM INCREASE

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You have now gone over the shoulder from the back and are working your way down the front of the tunic from the top of the shoulder down to the armhole. Work in pattern rows on these stitches until you have worked from the front top shoulder to the front armhole. Repeat the decrease you did for the back but in reverse, so minus 5 stitches two times at each side! This time you will add stitches to both sides to make the front lower section the same width as the back section.  

7. FRONT

After armhole increase, complete the front panel to match the length of the back panel in the same pattern with no increases or decreases, work the final row in DC to make sure it matches the back and fasten off yarn LoveCrafts

8. FINISHING

As you have basically made the top in one piece, to finish all you need to do is to fold the long piece in half and match the sides to each other,  then sew up both sides using the tapestry needle and some of the leftover yarn from the bottom edge to the armholes. Weave in any ends, turn inside out so the sewn in ends are inside and your top is ready to wear! ADAD95EC-28EF-47B2-8495-3C10592B8C08-804824D0-75E4-4283-8F1F-D4277E646BBB

This blog post contains affiliate links and ads. I may receive a very small commission at no extra cost to you if you order through a link or ad on this post. This helps me cover running costs of this blog so I can offer you this website full of  free patterns and relevant crochet content. Thank you for your support.

Any suggestions or feedback are most welcome through either my Instagram account or via crochetlovemelbourne@gmail.com

Pattern is copyrighted to @crochetlovemelbourne and must not be reproduced in any form without my permission. You may sell items made from this pattern but please give me pattern credit, thank you.

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